Goan rare vegetable dishes

Though, Goan generally prefers fish-curry, rice locally known as Shit-Kodi. They are also fond of varieties of vegetarian dishes which are mainly prepared from locally available vegetables. Once upon a time, Goans were making use of vegetables growing in the wild. However, knowledge of these locally grown wild vegetables is on the verge of extinction.

Tambdi bhaji, kuddukachi bhaji though used by Goans is considered to be local, is not so as both these vegetables are exotic and came from the continent of America. Vegetable of Kudduk (Celosia argentea) is also grown in the wild. Kudduk is a species of Amaranthus. During the rain, the Kudduk is abundantly grown. On the second day of Ganesh Chaturthi, there was a tradition of preparing vegetable of Kudduk. Tambdi bhaji (amaranthus) is cultivated all the year round. Fresh leaves of Tambdi bhaji are cut into the pieces along with chillies, onion and common salt is added for taste which is then cooked and is ate with pancake of finger millet (nachani bhakari). Tender plants of tambdi bhaji are also cooked with mixture of spices with pulses. Tambdi bhaji is also prepared with pieces of garlic, chillies, onion and oil extracted from the seeds of kokum, locally known as Bhindel is used while cooking it on tava (frying pan).

Tere (Colocasia esculenta) or elephant’s ears leaves as well as tubers are edible. Both the tubers and leaves Tere must be boiled to remove itching with kokum due to calcium oxalate crystals. Leaves of Tere are cooked with some quantity of water, pieces of chillies, onions, garlic, dried mangoes or dried rind of kokum. Eating this vegetable with nachani or tandalachi bhakari is indeed a delicacy. There is also a species of Tere grown in the wild and is available in the monsoon season. In rural Goa, the tribals have knowledge about the edible variety of Tere.

Tubers of Tere are more nutritive than potatoes. The slices of elongated tubers are fried on tava by using dried chilli powder with the oil of groundnuts. Tuber is also cut into small pieces and cooked with pieces of onion, dried rind of kokum and chillies. This vegetable is called as kel and has good taste with Nachani bhakri.

Phansachi Shak is the seasonal delicacy for villagers in few pockets of Goa. Today, large quantities of jackfruits are wasted as preparing the vegetable is time consuming. Open can of jackfruit is cut in bite size pieces and edible portion along with seeds is separated and is cooked with pieces of onions and chillies along with turmeric powder and groundnut oil by adding salt for taste. This lip-smacking vegetable is served on leaves of Chanduvado (Macaranga platia).

Taikalo or sickle senna (Cassia tora) is wildly grown during each rainy season from hill slopes to the plain. The tender leaves of Taikalo are cut into pieces and cooked with seeds of jackfruit along with pieces of onion and chillies by adding salt for taste and the vegetable is served with rice or with bhakri.

During the monsoon vegetable of Aakur (Acrostichum) is the delicacy enjoyed by the many families in the areas where there is salt water intrusion in the river. The tender shoots of aakur are removed and cut into small pieces and then cooked with the spices.

In the monsoon, the wild bamboos generally are sprouted. This bamboo, locally called ‘Keel’ or Kom (Dendrocalamus strictus) is used to prepare the spicy dish. The shoots are removed and cooked along with the spice. Some people make the pieces of tender shoot and put them
into salty water for some days. These pieces are then used while eating the food.

Besides, kom, the hilly forested areas has another species of wild bamboo called Chivar (Oxytenanthara ritcheyi) which are used for preparing delicious dishes.

Fagla (Momordica dioica) is grown in wild and is also cultivated. Tender fagla fruits are plucked from the creepers and cut into pieces by adding spices, chilli powder; it is cooked and is served. The wild creeper of Fagala (Momordica dioica) in the rain bears a fruits which are plucked and used as vegetable. The fruits are also cut and fried. It looks like bitter gourd. Fagla fruit vegetables are not available in abundance and have medicinal value. Roots are used as a remedy for bleeding piles, urinary complaints. This tasty vegetable is highly priced.

Vangyache bharik is a vegetable prepared from brinjals. Goa has Agashichi, Talgaochi, Dhangari and other varieties of brinjals. A big size brinjal is roasted on lighted charcoals or on stove and when it is wrinkled and soft, it is removed and dried chillies with coconut oil and pieces of onions is mixed. This vangyache bharik is served with chapatti or bhakri.

Dudiyachi bhaji contains high level of vitamin A and fruits can be preserved for a long time. Young leaves, tender stem and also the flowers of pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima) are used. Dudiya phulanchi bhaji is a rare delicacy. Yellow flowers are plucked and pieces of onion and chillies with little salt and oil are cooked together to prepare this vegetable.

Shegalachi bhaji or Drum sticks or moringa has high nutritive value. Bunches of small creamy flowers appear at the end of the monsoon. They and the tender leaves together with grated coconut and green chillies make a wonderful vegetable rich in Vitamin A and C, Iron, Calcium and Protein. Flowers of drum sticks are also used as vegetable by cooking them with pieces of green chillies and onion with little oil and salt.

Suranachi bhaji or elephant foot yam is grown underground. The large sub-surface corm is cooked as vegetable by mixing ample dried rind of kokum and spices mixed with chilli powder. The tender leaves available in monsoon for the herb are also cooked with dried rind of kokum and pieces of chillies, onion and salt.

Bondkali (Costus speciasus) is also one of the wild vegetable. Its rhizomes are cooked and eaten. It has properties of purgative and tonic. When leaves are tender, they are used as vegetables. However, today people have forgotten it’s medicinal as well as use for
vegetable.

Harpule (Holostemma annulara) is a creeper which is found mostly on the other trees in the jungle. Its leaves, flowers and fruits are used as vegetables. During the monsoon, the creeper bears fruits which appear like small bananas.

Zirmulo (Vigna vexillata) is a wild creeper which grows in the jungle. It bears pods which are edible. Tubers of the creepers are also edible.

As per the study conducted by Botany Department of Goa University under Planning Commission sponsored efforts for Conservation and Utilisation of Plant and Fungus Biodiversity in 2003-04 it was indicated that some species of wild plant vegetables are rich in iron and vitamin A content. Iron and vitamin A contribute for healthy growth and development of the body. Iron is an essential mineral for humans as it is part of blood which carries oxygen.

Nature gives its bounty to man. The monsoon is the period of vegetative growth. Nature is allowed to regenerate itself. People living in the tune with the nature were aware about various uses of plants and hence they could consume fresh grown wild vegetables
throughout the season. The love of Goans for wild delicacies is indeed legendary.

Once upon a time Goa has diverse varieties of vegetables available in wild as well as cultivated. But, today this agro-biodiversity heritage is slowly disappearing as Goans are consuming vegetables available in the market coming from neighbouring states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The Goan vegetables are grown with organic manual has rich nutritive and medicinal values. But, today we are forgetting our local varieties of vegetables along with traditional culinary art.